For those who don't already know, I have a VERY young white German Shepherd; he's going on nine weeks old (but not quite there yet!). And he is such a hand full! I've never had this much trouble with a dog, though I can't say I'm not pleased he has so much personality. He's VERY stubborn. And I just had a few general questions to help me work with his special brand of 'humor'. -___-

1) It's the biting phase! No!! He's a normal puppy, chewing on anything and everything he sees. Unfortunately his favorite chew toy is ME! I've worked with the biting phase before, but it's like he takes my training as a "just for now" thing. When he starts biting I'll say "No bite! No!" Close his mouth and turn his head, when he looks back at me I give him one of his chew toys, which he always takes. I praise him in reward. But three minutes later I reach over to pet him, and 'NOMNOMNOM'! He's doing a little better with his biting. If he starts JUST saying "NO BITE!" will usually cause him to stop and look at me. But as soon as I go back to what I was doing he'll start biting again. He's improved in that aspect, but he's showing no signs of further improvement. Any tips/advise?

As a side note, if he gets too rambunctious I put him in his kennel for a time-out. So I'm reinforcing it... to no avail.

2) Dominance. I know it's important to establish dominance from day one, but I was wondering when in puppy's life he will really start to challenge/test my dominance? Since German Shepherds don't fully mature until about three years, I'm wondering when he'll be ready to 'take over' if I slip up on something. I'm honestly a little slack on him right now because I take account that he's just a puppy and it hasn't really harmed our hierarchy at all. But I don't know exactly when to stop considering him a puppy and when to start considering him "a threat to my dominance".

3) What's a good age to switch from puppy kibble to regular dog food? Taken digestion issues in account, I'm wondering if German Shepherds should have a different transition age.

4) At about what age will he be able to receive his rabies shot?


Thanks a lot for any help you can give me. =)

[CorkyMax]

Originally Posted by LadyL

1) It's the biting phase! No!! He's a normal puppy, chewing on anything and everything he sees. Unfortunately his favorite chew toy is ME! I've worked with the biting phase before, but it's like he takes my training as a "just for now" thing. When he starts biting I'll say "No bite! No!" Close his mouth and turn his head, when he looks back at me I give him one of his chew toys, which he always takes. I praise him in reward. But three minutes later I reach over to pet him, and 'NOMNOMNOM'! He's doing a little better with his biting. If he starts JUST saying "NO BITE!" will usually cause him to stop and look at me. But as soon as I go back to what I was doing he'll start biting again. He's improved in that aspect, but he's showing no signs of further improvement. Any tips/advise?

As a side note, if he gets too rambunctious I put him in his kennel for a time-out. So I'm reinforcing it... to no avail.



3) What's a good age to switch from puppy kibble to regular dog food? Taken digestion issues in account, I'm wondering if German Shepherds should have a different transition age.

4) At about what age will he be able to receive his rabies shot?


Thanks a lot for any help you can give me. =)

Can't help you with the 1st 2 questions. I don't know if you have read the posts/threads I have in here on German Shepherds and Nutrition or not but you can find it/them in the Dog Health and Nutrition section or try putting words in the search area (top of page). I don't have any idea about when to switch to reg. dog food or if it would make that much difference even though a German Shepherd has a problem getting the nutrition from food. I have pretty much not used commercial dog food (only in the beginning, about 10+ yrs. ago--and I can't remember how old my dog was before I started cooking for him. I wish you would feed raw or at least cook for your German Shepherd---If you read or have read my post mentioned above you will know why I say this!! And raw would be the best for a German Shepherd because it esp. needs raw fresh food because of the problems this breed has with nutrition. I firmly believe that a German Shepherd would live longer and be healthier if it didn't have this problem with getting the proper nutrition. Only makes sense that nutrition is what makes the immune system healthy and able to fight diseases, old age, etc.---keep sickness at bay. This breed does not have a very long life span and I definitely believe it is because of the nutrtion problem!! I feed raw and do a little cooking for my dogs. I only went the raw way about 3 or so yrs ago.

As far as the dreaded poisonous Rabies shot---I wouldn't get it till I had to and that would depend on where you live and what the law is there. But will quote what my home vet book says: The 1st rabies vaccination should be given at 3 months of age, with the 1st booster shot given one year later (at15 months of age). Thereafter, give boosters annually or every 3 yrs, according to state and local statutes. Read up on vacs. reactions. I hope your law is the 3 yr. one!!! There aren't too many states that now require the 1 yr booster (every yr.) If I had to get that damn shot every year--I swear I'd move to another state that didn't require it every year. I would check with your state law as to when the 1st initial shot HAS to be given and sure wouldn't get it till I had to.---And make sure your dog is healthy at the time and build up the immune system as much as you can too!![/COLOR]

Originally Posted by Corky/Max

Can't help you with the 1st 2 questions. I don't know if you have read the posts/threads I have in here on German Shepherds and Nutrition or not but you can find it/them in the Dog Health and Nutrition section or try putting words in the search area (top of page). I don't have any idea about when to switch to reg. dog food or if it would make that much difference even though a German Shepherd has a problem getting the nutrition from food. I have pretty much not used commercial dog food (only in the beginning, about 10+ yrs. ago--and I can't remember how old my dog was before I started cooking for him. I wish you would feed raw or at least cook for your German Shepherd---If you read or have read my post mentioned above you will know why I say this!! And raw would be the best for a German Shepherd because it esp. needs raw fresh food because of the problems this breed has with nutrition. I firmly believe that a German Shepherd would live longer and be healthier if it didn't have this problem with getting the proper nutrition. Only makes sense that nutrition is what makes the immune system healthy and able to fight diseases, old age, etc.---keep sickness at bay. This breed does not have a very long life span and I definitely believe it is because of the nutrtion problem!! I feed raw and do a little cooking for my dogs. I only went the raw way about 3 or so yrs ago.

As far as the dreaded poisonous Rabies shot---I wouldn't get it till I had to and that would depend on where you live and what the law is there. But will quote what my home vet book says: The 1st rabies vaccination should be given at 3 months of age, with the 1st booster shot given one year later (at15 months of age). Thereafter, give boosters annually or every 3 yrs, according to state and local statutes. Read up on vacs. reactions. I hope your law is the 3 yr. one!!! There aren't too many states that now require the 1 yr booster (every yr.) If I had to get that damn shot every year--I swear I'd move to another state that didn't require it every year. I would check with your state law as to when the 1st initial shot HAS to be given and sure wouldn't get it till I had to.---And make sure your dog is healthy at the time and build up the immune system as much as you can too!![/COLOR]

Thanks for the advise! Though I'm well aware of the raw food issue. I feed him both raw food and commercial kibble because I'm not always able to prepare raw foods. I just alternate the meals, I wouldn't get a dog without first researching the essentials!

The rabies advise was the most help, thank you. =) I'll have to call up the breeder I got him from and ask them what our laws are here regarding the shots. I'm in MS right now and a lot of our raccoons carry rabies.

He's so good when he receives his shots! As long as I hold him he doesn't even whine. GREAT disposition.

[lil mutt]

I think you are doing a good job in correcting your pet's behavior... just be patient and eventually your dog will stop biting you. Mine stopped just recently.. i guess she got tired of it.

Originally Posted by lil mutt

I think you are doing a good job in correcting your pet's behavior... just be patient and eventually your dog will stop biting you. Mine stopped just recently.. i guess she got tired of it.

Thank you, it just gets so frustrating when the idea 'gets across' but doesn't actually GET ACROSS. Doubly so because he rarely chews on the things he's allowed to chew on. It's usually only when I show his toys to him, and like I said, he goes right back to ME or my furniture. Do you think a kong might be a bit more enticing for him, maybe keep his attention for more than two seconds?

Anyone?

First things first - Congratulations!! I would so love a white shepherd. And where are the pics???

A general comment: this is a 9-week old puppy, barely away from its mama. Sounds like you've been through this before so you already know you have a long way to go to get through puppyhood and adolescence. So take a deep breath and get your mind around the long haul. I felt just the way you do now when we got our girl. I wish someone had reminded me to chill out daily for the first year - LOL!

RE biting: Your puppy is telling you he wants to PLAY and for a puppy, who experiences much of the world through his mouth, that means you are a nice giant REACTIVE chew toy. I put the emphasis on the word reactive because you're giving him exactly what he wants - attention. Even negative attention is better than none at this stage. Here's what worked for us:

When your puppy starts mouthing, say "Ouch!" in a high-pitched squealing voice (like another dog would yelp) and get up and turn your back on your dog, crossing your arms and averting your eyes - no more additional talking to the dog, no eye contact, nothing. Maintain stillness until your dog calms down. If he continues to jump on you and mouth, repeat the "Ouch!" and leave the room for XX seconds. Reenter the room and pay no attention to him if he continues to be spastic. If he touches you with his teeth again, repeat the "ouch!" and leave the room again. If he's calm, say "Good boy!" and reward with a toy and play time.

This requires a lot of repetition. What you're trying to do is make the connection between the mouthing and the removal of his favorite chew toy - you. He'll learn that the way to keep you around and interacting with him is to not mouth you. I would not recommend holding his muzzle or yelling or being harsh in any way - you don't want him to make those kinds of negative associations with you, esp. at such a young age. And again, even negative attention is attention. So in the end such things don't work anyway and usu. just get you a dog that's afraid of you. And please don't put him in the kennel as a time out/punishment. You don't want any negative association with something that's supposed to be a safe haven for him and that you'll need to use to keep him from tearing up your house when he gets a little older and you're gone. Crates should always = Good thing!!

RE Dominance: Not sure where to begin on this one. I'll just be brief and say that many studies have shown that this is an out-dated concept that does not apply to human-dog relationships. In short - throw that idea out the window (I know I'll get a lot of blow-back about that, but I can't in good conscience let the notion sit). A wise trainer of 50 years told me that his #1 rule for puppies is that puppies can do no wrong. If your puppy gets into trouble, look to your own behavior first. Did you leave your shoes out where he could find them and snack on them? Did you forget the 100% supervision rule for puppies, esp. while potty training? Instead, I subscribe to redirection, distraction, and rewarding the behaviors I like. I urge you to get the book by Ian Dunbar called "Before and After Getting Your Puppy." You can get it on Amazon. You can also visit dogstardaily.com for lots of free advice from him and a lot of other experts, including much of what's in the book. Trust me, your dog is not and will not try to dominate you.

Ask your vet about switching to adult food and the rabies shot. We switched at around 6 months & got the rabies shots as described above.

Well my original reply to this thread was wiped out so I'm trying again...If they post both, sorry for the repetition!

First things first - congratulations! I so want a white shepherd. And where are the pics????

General comment: I wish someone had told me this daily when Poca was a puppy: Relax! You're in it for the long haul and this baby is just barely away from its mama. You have all of puppyhood and adolescence still to get through.

RE biting: The key here is to remember that your puppy is trying to play with you and get your attention. That's all. And since puppies experience much of the world through their mouths, it's natural that they would turn to the most exciting REACTIVE biggest chew toy around - you! I put reactive in all caps because I think that's what you need to change. At this age, even negative attention (holding his muzzle, saying "NO!" is negative attention) is preferable to no attention and he doesn't know you or much of anything else well enough to know why you don't like what he's doing. This is what worked for us:

When your puppy mouths you, say "Ouch!" in a high-pitched yelping tone (think how a dog would yelp if another dog bit it), get up, turn your back, cross your arms, and avert your eyes. Give the dog absolutely no attention, no eye contact, no waving arms, no pushing him away (this looks like a giant PLAY gesture to a dog!), no talking - nothing. Maintain stillness and ignore the dog until he calms down. If he continues to try to mouth you, say "Ouch!" again and leave the room for 10-20 seconds. Come back. If he tries to mouth again, say "Ouch!" and leave the room again. If he's calmer, reward with "Good boy!", a favorite toy, and the thing he wants most in the world -- your attention. Play with him. BTW - dogs don't always know how to play or engage with toys. You have to entice them and teach them that toys can be fun. Kongs are an excellent idea. Lots of good ways you can stuff & freeze them to keep him occupied.

It took repetition but our dog learned eventually that mouthing meant she wasn't going to get the attention she was craving. Worked like a charm. You just have to have some patience. Could take several weeks, not days, here.

RE dominance: I could write reams on this but will keep it short and say please throw this concept out the window. Many studies have been done that show that human-dog dominance is an out-dated concept. Trust me, your dog is not and will not try to dominate you. You don't need to try to dominate him. I urge you to get Ian Dunbar's book "Before and After Getting Your Puppy" - it contains everything you need to know to raise a beautiful balanced pup. You can get most if not all of the same material for free on the dogstardaily.com web site.

A wise trainer I know who has been at it for 50+ years once told me that his #1 rule for puppies is that they can do no wrong. If your puppy gets into trouble, look first to your own behavior. Did you leave your shoes out where he could get to them and snack on them? Did you forget that puppies need 100% supervision when they're not crated, esp. during potty training? BTW, I would not recommend using his kennel for time-outs. You want to be able to use that crate for a long time, esp. when he gets to adolescence and wants to chew everything in sight when you're gone. So don't put him in there when he misbehaves - it only creates negative associations with it that you'll regret later. I know that one from experience!

RE food - we switched our girl at 6 months to adult food on the advice of the vet. I would check with him/her on that and the rabies thing.

We have a 14 week old Shih-poo and are having the same issues with biting! I can only imagine what it feels like for you. It seems I have tried everything to no avail. Patience, patience, and more patience is the best advice I think I can give you. LOL I have always said "No bite", but just recently I have begun to turn my back on her and refuse to play with her when she gets in those 'moods' and it has eased up... I am not sure if it's timing or it's finally starting to sink in tho'.

[Smartdogs]

We sometimes give puppies the wrong message about biting by some of the games we play with them. Wrestling and tug of war can encourage a puppy to bite and make it hard for him to distinguish when it's okay to use his teeth and when it's not. Your puppy socializing with other puppies or dogs also helps.
ACTION SUGGESTION.
The next time your puppy bites you, scream "OW!" in a high-pitched voice. Exaggerate a little. Then refuse to play with him or pay attention to him for a few minutes. If he doesn't get the message, give him a little scruff shake and scold him in a low-toned, threatening voice. You can exaggerate a little on that, too! Sound meaner than you really are. For puppies that just won't quit or seem to get wilder with every correction, flip them over on their backs, scold them in that same low, scary voice (growling) and gently but firmly, hold them in that position until they stop struggling.
The puppy must understand that it is the biting that you don't like, not the puppy itself. Make up afterwards, but on your terms, not the puppy's.

[Lara's mom]

You will then know the meaning of complete and utter frustration!!! I am at the "end of my rope."

[german sheep]

Why are you not using this energy in a way you would like to?

When your puppy comes to you, use food and give him input as to show him sit, down, stay, let him "crawl" under your knees. Let him walk around you. Do a bit of eye contact training. Let him give you a paw, then the other and so on.

The word "no" will no help you in this situation. Your dog doesn't know what he his doing "wrong". If you say no and maybe push him away, you're going to block his will to learn. Use this energy and show him everything you want.

A puppy is like a sponge, hi Wants to learn and a pup is a full time job when you do it the right way. It can be very stressfull for the first time, but when the basic rules are learned it will be quite nice.

LG
gs