[jerikabear]

i have recently taken in an older yellow lab from a family member because i happened to lover her more than them. she was a very active dog for the first few years of her life but hasn't been since and now she is very overweight and out of shape and i am very worried about her health and would like to see her liver a longer and healthier life. i have been researching dog diets online but haven't found anything that sounds like a diet. i'd ideally like to make her food at home unless anyone knows of a natural diet food that a dog might actually enjoy eating. i've already started her with walking her more and trying to keep her active but i think she needs more than that..

soo my question is.. does anyone know of a good diet plan for an older dog - she is about 8 years old???

please help! i love her dearly and would love to keep her in my life as long as possible.

[CorkyMax]

Here is a link on the subject!-->
Fat Dogs Can Lose Weight with Low Fat Dog Treats, Exercise, and Our Help
Feed a lot of green beans, pulverized of course (Dogs do not break down the celuloid walls of veggies --so you pulverize really fine --mini blender and scrape down sides to get all real fine--blend 2-3 times. If you don't do this, the dog is not getting the nutrition! I don't remember if you said you feed raw or home-cooked. (I feed mostly raw and a little home-cooked--Never 'poisonous' commercial dog food!) Not sure if you need to pulverize if you feed cooked but I am thinking it still is prob. the best to do it! Chicken (skinless and fairly fat-free), green beans, and tomatoes. Tomatoes should not have any green on it and definitely no skins as these can be bad for your dog. Don't overdo the tomatoes, not too many seeds either. Tomatoes are not the best thing for a dog but if you are careful with them and follow the advice on them above you should be okay---Start slow and see how your dog reacts to them. Lol, I have an overweight cocker that is almost 11 (April Fool's Day!) It is hard to get them to lose weight. I feed a lot of veggies with the meat---broccoli, celery, some carrots---never corn or starchy veggies (Carrots are kind of starchy but they need some 'below ground/root veggies too.) I also think a little cooked pumpkin is good too--small amount though. Fish--(BUT cooked) would be good too--Also canned salmon
Meat has a lot of calories but do not skimp on it as dogs need this protein to be healthy! You might want to supplement with some vitamins also.
If you have never raw fed or home-cooked---You need to do some research as you want to have proper nutrition and balance! Just put words like raw feeding/dogs or home cooking/dogs for starters. Also check out some books on the subject from your library--and if they don't have what you need--they can check their computer and find what libraries do have some books and have them 'bused to your library (This should be a service to you and free of charge!) Also go to E-bay and Amazon com---Many books and some used ones really cheap!

Also hope you will check out this thread I did in here---Bet there is something there that you weren't aware of!!--> Foods that are hazardous to a dog

You can go to top of page(s) in this forum and in the blue strip across top of page--find the white word Search--click and put words like raw feeding or home cooking and will bring up lists of threads for you to check out.

[Yogi]

Though many have doubts, Science Diet R/D in fact works great. I have taken in overweight rescues for many years and have used this with excellent results.
So long as strictly adhered to. I used it on one of my Miniature Pinschers years ago and over a 3 month period she dropped from 16lbs to 11.5lbs. It does work if you elect to go with a dry prepared dog kibble food.

[mypetisloved]

It sounds as if you are doing the right things that she needs, with doing more walks, etc. Have you asked her vet what he/she recommends? That might be a good start.

[Todd]

Originally Posted by Yogi

Though many have doubts, Science Diet R/D in fact works great. I have taken in overweight rescues for many years and have used this with excellent results.
So long as strictly adhered to. I used it on one of my Miniature Pinschers years ago and over a 3 month period she dropped from 16lbs to 11.5lbs. It does work if you elect to go with a dry prepared dog kibble food.

I wouldn't use science diet. it really is a very low quality dog food. try evo or something. it is very high quality and you dont need 2 feed as much to satisfy nutritional needs. they also have a reduced fat formula.

ever consider a raw or home cooked diet?

[Yogi]

To avoid the obvious, the discussion of what dog food is best etc. has been a long drawn out issue for years. With the inception of the internet it has turned into somewhat of a serious debate that unfortunately in most cases are only substantiated by reports with little to know founding proof as to which is really better or if any are really bad. Common sense tells us that grain should not be a main ingredient in dog foods, this though does not mean it cannot be in the food. Emphasis on meat though fine has not proven to make one food better than another. The truth is that most of these sites containing this information that so many are so quick to quote and believe are not based on real evidence but on individuals expressing their opinions based on what they have read somewhere else.
For those of us who have raised and bred (in more cases than not, longer than many here) I for one have seen first hand (not read some report, but actually witnessed results) how dog foods do work and how so much misconception there is out there with regards to what one person deems is better than another. Over the past 30 plus years I have raised my dogs on Purina and Purina One Lamb & Rice. Each has lived far beyond the breed standard that has been on these foods since they were puppies. In the case of those I have taken in that were overweight. The R/D has in fact reduced weight faster than any other I have used and with follow up health check ups, the dogs have been deemed healthy which is the goal.
As a moderator here and on other sites, we have had to ban the discussion of what is the proper dog food to provide to our dogs. To avoid this issue here I will state that so long as no derogatory remarks are given with regards to the food you would not choose and stay on topic as to the OP's questions regarding what food you recommend, we will keep the topic open. Personal opinions without fail lead to arguments and whether we like it or not. Please address only the OP not those who reply. By doing so, you will show respect for others and help in avoiding taking the OP's question off topic.

[Todd]

Originally Posted by Yogi

To avoid the obvious, the discussion of what dog food is best etc. has been a long drawn out issue for years. With the inception of the internet it has turned into somewhat of a serious debate that unfortunately in most cases are only substantiated by reports with little to know founding proof as to which is really better or if any are really bad. Common sense tells us that grain should not be a main ingredient in dog foods, this though does not mean it cannot be in the food. Emphasis on meat though fine has not proven to make one food better than another. The truth is that most of these sites containing this information that so many are so quick to quote and believe are not based on real evidence but on individuals expressing their opinions based on what they have read somewhere else.
For those of us who have raised and bred (in more cases than not, longer than many here) I for one have seen first hand (not read some report, but actually witnessed results) how dog foods do work and how so much misconception there is out there with regards to what one person deems is better than another. Over the past 30 plus years I have raised my dogs on Purina and Purina One Lamb & Rice. Each has lived far beyond the breed standard that has been on these foods since they were puppies. In the case of those I have taken in that were overweight. The R/D has in fact reduced weight faster than any other I have used and with follow up health check ups, the dogs have been deemed healthy which is the goal.
As a moderator here and on other sites, we have had to ban the discussion of what is the proper dog food to provide to our dogs. To avoid this issue here I will state that so long as no derogatory remarks are given with regards to the food you would not choose and stay on topic as to the OP's questions regarding what food you recommend, we will keep the topic open. Personal opinions without fail lead to arguments and whether we like it or not. Please address only the OP not those who reply. By doing so, you will show respect for others and help in avoiding taking the OP's question off topic.

i understand what you are saying, but how can you explain some of the harsh chemicals used in commercial pet foods like purina, iams, or science diet? here is a list of some common culprits and their definitions i personally looked up;

meat by-products: The non-rendered, clean parts, other than meat, derived from slaughtered mammals. It includes, but is not limited to, lungs, spleen, kidneys, brain, livers, blood, bone, partially defatted low temperature fatty tissue, and stomachs and intestines freed of their contents. It does not include hair, horns, teeth and hoofs. It shall be suitable for use in animal food. If it bears name descriptive of its kind, it must correspond thereto. (these are not bad in pet foods, it's the way that these are used instead of the most important parts of the animal/meat)

Wheat Gluten: a protein substance that remains when starch is removed from cereal grains; gives cohesiveness to dough

Soy Flour: finely ground soybeans, most commonly used as an additive to other flours, processed meats, cereals, etc.

Artificial Flavors: any substance created artificially to flavor food products

corn starch: a fine, granular or powdery starch made from corn: used in cooking and to make corn sugar, corn syrup, etc.

potassium chloride: A colorless crystalline solid or powder, KCl, used widely in fertilizers and in the preparation of most potassium compounds. Also called potash muriate, potassium muriate.

xanthan gum: A natural gum of high molecular weight produced by culture fermentation of glucose and used as a stabilizer in commercial food preparation.

titanium dioxide color: A white powder, TiO2, used as an exceptionally opaque white pigment.

carrageenan: Any of a group of closely related colloids derived from Irish moss and several other red algae, widely used as a thickening, stabilizing, emulsifying, or suspending agent in industrial, pharmaceutical, and food products.

iron oxide: Any of various oxides of iron, such as ferric oxide or ferrous oxide.

sodium nitrite: A fire-hazardous, air-sensitive, yellowish powder, soluble in water; decomposes above 320°C; used as an intermediate for dyestuffs and for pickling meat, textiles dyeing, and rust-proofing, and in medicine.

ferrous sulfate: A greenish crystalline compound, FeSO4·7H2O, used as a pigment, fertilizer, and feed additive, in sewage and water treatment, and as a medicine in the treatment of iron deficiency. Also called copperas.

zinc sulfate: a colorless, crystalline powder, ZnSO·7HO, used as an emetic in medicine, as a mordant in dyeing, etc.

manganese sulfate: a pink, water-soluble, usually tetrahydrate salt, MnSO4·4H2O, used chiefly in fertilizers, paints, and varnishes.

copper sulfate: A poisonous blue crystalline copper salt, CuSO4·5H2O, used in agriculture, textile dyeing, leather treatment, electroplating, and the manufacture of germicides. Who is their right mind would add a poisonous chemical into dog food if they really gave a you know what about these pets?

niacin: A white crystalline acid, C5H4NCOOH, that is a component of the vitamin B complex found in meat, wheat germ, dairy products, and yeast and is used to treat and prevent pellagra. Also called nicotinic acid.

cobalt carbonate: A hard, brittle metallic element, found associated with nickel, silver, lead, copper, and iron ores and resembling nickel and iron in appearance. It is used chiefly for magnetic alloys, high-temperature alloys, and in the form of its salts for blue glass and ceramic pigments.

potassium iodide: a transparent, crystalline salt, KI, available also as a white, granular powder, used as a feed additive and in medicine, photography, etc.

*most of those things have no business being in pet food at all.

[Yogi]

Though I appreciate what you are saying I note that in near all cases, you will not find all listed in any one dog food. These reflects items in general found in dog foods.
Unfortunately what you as well as others continuously fail to note in calculating what is good and what is not is that man created dog and that do to this fact not all are as carnivorous as one thinks.
In determining what is good for a dog in general people tend to forget that dog food diets need to be determined by more than what is in the food. Instead need to concentrate on Breed, Activity level ie: energy of the breed. Genetics, Age, Weight etc. As for the common misconception that many ingredients are automatically bad, ie: corn, wheat etc. This again is only determined by breed as many have no problems with these ingredients where others do.
To note, keep in mind only the Terrier family of dogs was bred to kill and eat what it killed. Other breeds that man created for specific purposes were fed what man ate long before dog food and ironically that consisted of grains as well as vegetables as well as meats. The concept of "table scraps" for some reason seems to most to imply a 20th century concept but in fact has gone on since dogs were created. Whether freeze dried or straight from you plate it has been a mainstay of dogs for centuries. Though I applaud dog food manufacturers who work at creating different foods free of many things that some feel are not needed many of the contents can and are still found in dog foods but labeled under different names. As noted, the internet is a source of information unfortunately anyone can write what they feel but in no way does it make it factual in regards to effects as many assume. If you are one who is greatly concerned than all one needs to do is check to see if AAFCO label is on the bag. This is the division of the FDA that regulates pet food.
Granted as put just because you see meat listed whether chicken, beef etc. does not mean it is prime but is generally slaughterhouse. The terms used by all dog food manufacturers can easily be led into question as to what really is in the food. AAFCO generally will only allow their label if they feel that from a nutritional standpoint the food meets a dog or cats nutritional needs. These are veterinary nutritionist. Even the term all natural is in fact false as these foods still need or will have additives whether vitamins etc otherwise from a nutritional standpoint, they would not meed the standards.
This is a quote from the AAFCO regarding natural foods:
"Natural, "organic, "vegan," "holistic" and "raw" diets made by small and medium-sized companies are becoming immensely popular. But nutritionists are extremely divided as to whether these choices are better than commercial food. Just because a food is "natural", they warn, doesn't mean it's without problems. Petcurian's Natural "Go" food for cats and dogs was voluntarily pulled from the shelves late last year after several dogs and cats allegedly got sick-some died-after eating the food. The problem may have been caused by mold in the wheat used to make the product. Raw foods (BARF diet) must be handled with extreme care to avoid contamination, as dogs and cats are capable of getting and spreading salmonella, e.coli, and other dangerous illnesses."
No matter what foods one buys, there is risks which is why sometimes when we find one that works, we stay with it. Just because one dog may have an allergic reaction to a food byproduct does not mean all will this holds true for dog foods in general. As stated, mine for the past 30 plus years have come back from their yearly health checkups in great shape and in my breed, those raised from puppies have lived far beyond their breed standard. As one vet nutritionist put it too me, if the dog is healthy, active and shows good gums, teeth and healthy coat with clean solid stool, the food is doing its job. The concerns about the products compiled to make dog food has only in recent years come under question and more so with the recalls from a few years ago which ironically Purina was not one of them. Had that been the case I would not be using it now. But as it was not and the dogs have all been healthy for all these years, I will trust what I know to be fact and not fall for what so many have and that is to me more of scare tactics by those who's agenda is questionable at best. I must note that I do not support and specific dog food company and as stated applaud the new ones for anything that they feel they can accomplish with regards to new ways but at the same time question the validity of even their claims to all natural, etc and whether in fact from a nutrition standpoint the food is in fact as good as claimed. According to the AAFCO, it may not be. Just some food for thought.
Since advertising is what it is all about and who is willing to do the best job to get one to buy their products. As the AAFCO puts it, there is a difference in beef dog food and beef dinner. One requires the food to be 95% beef while the other only requires it be 25%. Odd how the terms can confuse and just when one thought they were getting something better only to realize they were not.

[Todd]

Originally Posted by Yogi

Though I appreciate what you are saying I note that in near all cases, you will not find all listed in any one dog food. These reflects items in general found in dog foods.
Unfortunately what you as well as others continuously fail to note in calculating what is good and what is not is that man created dog and that do to this fact not all are as carnivorous as one thinks.
In determining what is good for a dog in general people tend to forget that dog food diets need to be determined by more than what is in the food. Instead need to concentrate on Breed, Activity level ie: energy of the breed. Genetics, Age, Weight etc. As for the common misconception that many ingredients are automatically bad, ie: corn, wheat etc. This again is only determined by breed as many have no problems with these ingredients where others do.
To note, keep in mind only the Terrier family of dogs was bred to kill and eat what it killed. Other breeds that man created for specific purposes were fed what man ate long before dog food and ironically that consisted of grains as well as vegetables as well as meats. The concept of "table scraps" for some reason seems to most to imply a 20th century concept but in fact has gone on since dogs were created. Whether freeze dried or straight from you plate it has been a mainstay of dogs for centuries. Though I applaud dog food manufacturers who work at creating different foods free of many things that some feel are not needed many of the contents can and are still found in dog foods but labeled under different names. As noted, the internet is a source of information unfortunately anyone can write what they feel but in no way does it make it factual in regards to effects as many assume. If you are one who is greatly concerned than all one needs to do is check to see if AAFCO label is on the bag. This is the division of the FDA that regulates pet food.
Granted as put just because you see meat listed whether chicken, beef etc. does not mean it is prime but is generally slaughterhouse. The terms used by all dog food manufacturers can easily be led into question as to what really is in the food. AAFCO generally will only allow their label if they feel that from a nutritional standpoint the food meets a dog or cats nutritional needs. These are veterinary nutritionist. Even the term all natural is in fact false as these foods still need or will have additives whether vitamins etc otherwise from a nutritional standpoint, they would not meed the standards.
This is a quote from the AAFCO regarding natural foods:
"Natural, "organic, "vegan," "holistic" and "raw" diets made by small and medium-sized companies are becoming immensely popular. But nutritionists are extremely divided as to whether these choices are better than commercial food. Just because a food is "natural", they warn, doesn't mean it's without problems. Petcurian's Natural "Go" food for cats and dogs was voluntarily pulled from the shelves late last year after several dogs and cats allegedly got sick-some died-after eating the food. The problem may have been caused by mold in the wheat used to make the product. Raw foods (BARF diet) must be handled with extreme care to avoid contamination, as dogs and cats are capable of getting and spreading salmonella, e.coli, and other dangerous illnesses."
No matter what foods one buys, there is risks which is why sometimes when we find one that works, we stay with it. Just because one dog may have an allergic reaction to a food byproduct does not mean all will this holds true for dog foods in general. As stated, mine for the past 30 plus years have come back from their yearly health checkups in great shape and in my breed, those raised from puppies have lived far beyond their breed standard. As one vet nutritionist put it too me, if the dog is healthy, active and shows good gums, teeth and healthy coat with clean solid stool, the food is doing its job. The concerns about the products compiled to make dog food has only in recent years come under question and more so with the recalls from a few years ago which ironically Purina was not one of them. Had that been the case I would not be using it now. But as it was not and the dogs have all been healthy for all these years, I will trust what I know to be fact and not fall for what so many have and that is to me more of scare tactics by those who's agenda is questionable at best. I must note that I do not support and specific dog food company and as stated applaud the new ones for anything that they feel they can accomplish with regards to new ways but at the same time question the validity of even their claims to all natural, etc and whether in fact from a nutrition standpoint the food is in fact as good as claimed. According to the AAFCO, it may not be. Just some food for thought.
Since advertising is what it is all about and who is willing to do the best job to get one to buy their products. As the AAFCO puts it, there is a difference in beef dog food and beef dinner. One requires the food to be 95% beef while the other only requires it be 25%. Odd how the terms can confuse and just when one thought they were getting something better only to realize they were not.

first of all, ALL of these ingredience are from a purina formula. my aunt feeds purina so i took all unknown chemicals from that purina formula. again, ALL of these are in one specific food. im not saying that these foods dont have some good ingredients, im saying that the harmful ingredients completely outweigh the good ingredients.

also the pet food industry is virtually unregulated.

[Yogi]

I may have misunderstood what you stated. Purina has numerous foods like most major companies. Not all Purina foods are the same thus because one may have all these ingredients does not mean the others do. Purina has no one standard set of ingredients in their foods. Each is different in one way or another. Whether one deems that some outweigh is strictly a difference of opinion based on their own beliefs. In my case, 50 years of raising and breeding have shown that Purina works extremely well in my breed. This though does not mean it will in other breeds. As I noted, people need to understand that there is no one perfect dog food and never will be. Like humans, what is nutritional to one may not be to another. Breed types determine nutrition as well as age, activity level, weight etc. It is for this reason that what you deem is bad in fact may be beneficial. GSD's have a very sensitive digestive system which is prone to the breed. There is no perfect food designed necessarily for them so like most people, you find what works based on what it can eat and digest. I never endorse only reply with what I know has worked in my case. Which is what everyone should be doing instead of looking to what they read but have not actually seen work or not.

[Connor]

My vet simply recommended feeding him only twice a day (with just 1 cup at a time-65lb dog) and to take his bowl away after a half an hour.

He also suggested green bean supplement to stretch out the food if he required more. Started out giving him 1 cup of dry food (Kirkland lamb & rice) and 1 cup of green beans per meal. Weaned him off the green beans ever the course of several months.

If the green beans give him loose stools, try adding some pumpkin (the kind that comes in a can for pumpkin pie)

Good luck.

[CorkyMax]

Just want to verify that the pumpkin would be just plain canned pumpkin---Not the already pumpkin pie filling/mix. I think the poster meant the plain (only ingredient is the pumpkin) but just want to make it clear as the pie mix would be full of sugar and not good for a dog, plus it wouldn't do as good a job as the pure unadulterated pumpkin.

[Yogi]

Originally Posted by Corky/Max

Just want to verify that the pumpkin would be just plain canned pumpkin---Not the already pumpkin pie filling/mix. I think the poster meant the plain (only ingredient is the pumpkin) but just want to make it clear as the pie mix would be full of sugar and not good for a dog, plus it wouldn't do as good a job as the pure unadulterated pumpkin.

Good catch Corky/Max

[Todd]

Originally Posted by Yogi

Good catch Corky/Max

pumpkin may not be the answer. that merely covers up the problems, it doesn't solve the problem.

[reeskujo]

This thread is getting slightly off track...Lets Please keep it to the original topic so that we don't have to close the thread...

Thanks for your understanding

[OrangeDog]

a co-worker of mine had a golden retriever who lost 22lbs using the following:

3/4 cup dry dog food (Solid Gold Holistic or Blue Buffalo Reduced are great ones) plus 1/2 cup green beans. This was fed twice a day and worked WONDERS!

I use it with one of my girls who puts on weight easily and every so often she goes on this for a week or two to drop any extra lbs.

[Todd]

may want to add some cooked cabbage. Not really gonna add any nutritional benefit, but it fills ur dog up without any extra calories.

[Yogi]

Originally Posted by Todd

pumpkin may not be the answer. that merely covers up the problems, it doesn't solve the problem.

Pumpkin will not cover up a problem that does not exist. Granted, if the dog has worms etc, yes the dog will continue to have loose stool. But at the same time, pumpkin has been a mainstay additive to dogs diet for years who suffer from the simple occasional not intestinal disorder diarrhea.
If a dog has had a continuous problem with loose stool than a vet appt is in order for testing on a fecal sample. But if this is occasional and results are negative for parasites, worms etc than pumpkin has been known for years to help solidify and decrease loose stool and diarrhea in dogs. In this, it is not covering up anything.
Even humans get loose stool occasionally and this does not mean there has to be something wrong and we take things to eliminate the problem.
But it is always advisable to have a fecal sample tested to ensure there are no issues and if negative, by all means using pumpkin (not the pumpkin pie type) is and has been a standard that works.

[Lunareclipse]

walkies, walkies, fetch, walkies, fetch. Make sure he gets proper exercise and the weight should come off. A proper diet is important too, but without the exercise it wouldn't be as effective.

[Todd]

Originally Posted by Yogi

Pumpkin will not cover up a problem that does not exist. Granted, if the dog has worms etc, yes the dog will continue to have loose stool. But at the same time, pumpkin has been a mainstay additive to dogs diet for years who suffer from the simple occasional not intestinal disorder diarrhea.
If a dog has had a continuous problem with loose stool than a vet appt is in order for testing on a fecal sample. But if this is occasional and results are negative for parasites, worms etc than pumpkin has been known for years to help solidify and decrease loose stool and diarrhea in dogs. In this, it is not covering up anything.
Even humans get loose stool occasionally and this does not mean there has to be something wrong and we take things to eliminate the problem.
But it is always advisable to have a fecal sample tested to ensure there are no issues and if negative, by all means using pumpkin (not the pumpkin pie type) is and has been a standard that works.

You're right. Let me rephrase what I said. Pumpkin can cover up problems but not solve them if it is chronic diarrhea or something that is going on all the time. It's fine if your dog just ate something he shouldn't have or something. However, if you have to use pumpkin often to keep the dog regular, that is merely covering up the problem. you must first look at the diet and possibly make some adjustments there to solve the actual digestive problem, unless of course its a parasite or other illness. So for short term situations pumpkin is ok, but it merely covers up the problem in long term issues.

Originally Posted by Connor

My vet simply recommended feeding him only twice a day (with just 1 cup at a time-65lb dog) and to take his bowl away after a half an hour.

He also suggested green bean supplement to stretch out the food if he required more. Started out giving him 1 cup of dry food (Kirkland lamb & rice) and 1 cup of green beans per meal. Weaned him off the green beans ever the course of several months.

If the green beans give him loose stools, try adding some pumpkin (the kind that comes in a can for pumpkin pie)

Good luck.

try cabbage instead. even less calories and probably won't give loose stools. no reason to have to give your dog canned pumpkin every day. if he has loose stools from green beans, that means his body isn't able to digest them properly. your better bet here is cabbage.