...shelter.?

obedience classes

when it pees in the house rub the dogs nose in it and it will learn not to pee in the house.

What I have below is the info I send home with puppy buyers, but the principles are the same for housebreaking an adult dog. One benefit is that adult dogs usually get it faster. Some dogs that have been in a shelter don't do well being in a crate, so be sure you have a safe place to confine him when you are not home, like the kitchen. GOOD LUCK!!Establish A RoutineLike babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after he wakes up from a nap, after playing, and after eating or drinking. Praise your puppy lavishly every time he eliminates outdoors—you can even give him a treat—but remember to do so immediately after he's finished eliminating, not after he comes back inside the house. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for eliminating outdoors is the only way he'll know what's expected of him. Pick a bathroom spot near the door, and always take your puppy to that spot using a leash. Take him out for a longer walk or some playtime only after he has eliminated. If you clean up an accident in the house, take the soiled rags or paper towels and leave them in the bathroom spot. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place he is supposed to eliminate. While your puppy is eliminating, use a word or phrase, like "go potty," that you can eventually use before he eliminates to remind him what to do. Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule and feed a high-quality diet to make housetraining easier. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that he'll eliminate at consistent times as well, and that makes housetraining easier for both of you.Keep Your Eyes PeeledDon't give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on him whenever he's indoors. You can tether him to you with a six-foot leash, or use baby gates to keep him in the room where you are. Watch for signs that he needs to eliminate, like sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take him outside to his bathroom spot. If he eliminates, praise him lavishly and reward him with a treat.ConfinementWhen you're unable to watch your puppy at all times, he should be confined to an area small enough that he won't want to eliminate there. The space should be just big enough for him to comfortably stand, lie down, and turn around in. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates. Or you may want to crate train your puppy and use the crate to confine him. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you'll need to take him directly to his bathroom spot as soon as you let him out, and praise him when he eliminates.Oops!Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it's a normal part of housetraining. Here's what to do when that happens:When you catch him in the act of eliminating in the house, do something to interrupt him, like make a startling noise (be careful not to scare him). Immediately take him to his bathroom spot, praise him, and give him a treat if he finishes eliminating there. Don't punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it's too late to administer a correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy's nose in it, taking him to the spot and scolding him, or any other punishment will only make him afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. In fact, punishment will often do more harm than good. Cleaning the soiled area is very important because puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.It's extremely important that you use the supervision and confinement procedures outlined above to prevent the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, he'll get confused about where he's supposed to eliminate, which will prolong the housetraining process.A puppy under six months of age cannot be expected to control his bladder for more than a few hours at a time. If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy; instead, you may want to consider an older dog, who can wait for your return.But if you're already committed to having a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you'll need to make arrangements for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take him outside to eliminate. If you clean up an accident in the house, put the soiled rags or paper towels in the designated elimination area. The smell will help your puppy recognize the area as the place where he is supposed to eliminate.Other Types of House-Soiling ProblemsIf you've consistently followed the housetraining procedures and your puppy continues to eliminate in the house, there may be another reason for his behavior, such as&Medical Problems: House soiling can often be caused by physical problems such as a urinary tract infection or a parasite infection. Check with your veterinarian to rule out any possibility of disease or illness. Submissive/Excitement Urination: Some dogs, especially young ones, temporarily lose control of their bladders when they become excited or feel threatened. This usually occurs during greetings or periods of intense play, or when they're about to be punished. Territorial Urine-Marking: Dogs sometimes deposit small amounts of urine or feces to scent-mark their territory. Both male and female dogs do this, and it most often occurs when they believe their territory has been invaded. Separation Anxiety: Dogs who become anxious when they're left alone may house soil as a result. Usually, there are other symptoms as well, such as destructive behavior or vocalization. Fears or Phobias: When animals become frightened, they may lose control of their bladder and/or bowels. If your puppy is afraid of loud noises, such as thunderstorms or fireworks, he may house soil when he's exposed to these sounds.

5 years old. Oh, he's set in his ways. As much as I hate crates, I think that's your only alternative. Crate him, take him for a walk, or let him outside to go, then back into the crate until he learns.. He's probably marking his new territory too..I've heard of some dogs that will do it in the crate too... so, good luck.Nice of you to take in a 5 year old from a shelter...wish more people would.

This is how I did my puppy--I bought two large wire crates and opened them to face each other. One was bedding, food and water. The other was lined with wee wee pads. The dog could not do anything but go between the two during the day. I would come home at lunch and walk outside, play a little, change wee wee pad and back in the dog went till I got home. After several weeks, the dog understood the only place to go was the wee pad or outside. Eventually you can remove one of the crates.Good luck.

First of all thank you for saving a life!

A 5 year old dog would actually be EASIER to train than a pup. They have the ability to hold it, and grasp the idea much faster generally. I've taken 11 adult dogs from a pound in the last 2 years, they all got it in less than 2 weeks.

I would definitely start by crate training. Make sure he knows this is a GOOD place! Keep him on a strict schedule, and be sure he's attached to you at all times via leash if not in the crate. Learn his body language so you know when he's ready to go. Praise like crazy when he goes outside, give a stearn NO and quick snap of the leash when he starts to have an accident than rush him outside. Try to get him to stop going (some dogs just don't stop) once you see him starting. Praise a ton once he goes outside after the correction, even if it's a drop!

Good luck!