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Old 10-21-2008   #1 (permalink)
CATorres
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Default Leash Pulling

Any precise way to get a puppy to stop pulling?

Someone advised me to stop, let the puppy calm down, then proceed with walking. But that hasn't helped.

No yanking on the leash as that will just agravate and make the puppy pull more.

So I am at a loss and don't know another way...

Any ideas?
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #2 (permalink)
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I used an anti-pull harness to teach my dog proper leash manners. Even now, I prefer to use a harness on her, simply because it is more comfortable for her, instead of leading her around by her neck. And even now, (some might object and say it's wrong, but it works for me) if my dog starts to pull (she is a hunting dog by nature, and follows her nose everywhere), I give a quick, hard pull of my own on the leash (this has the same effect as hugging her around the middle and moving her where I want, because of the harness), while at the same time using a verbal command, such as "NO! Heel!" or "Leave it!" and then I just keep on walking. She has no choice but to continue at my side. As I've said, some might say I'm doing the wrong thing, but it has worked very well for me. However, there is a time and place for everything, and I do allow some time in our walks for her to sniff at her pleasure, before beginning my own workout. I've found this to be helpful as well.
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #3 (permalink)
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I need to work on the lease thing too. Took my GoldenLab to the vet today and he kept pulling and choking. It was rather embarressing.
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #4 (permalink)
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After I posted, another method of teaching ocurred to me, which might be better for a small puppy: carry treats in your pocket, on the same side that you want your dog to heel on. Every few steps you take that the puppy is heeling without pulling, praise with "good heel!" and give him a treat. This will probably work a lot better than my above post. I praise my dog when she is walking well too, just in case anyone wonders-- but because of her high scent drive, she forgets and gets sidetracked easily, in which case a correction is necessary.

Oh, and on another thread, some discussed the "wait" command. Note that "stay" and "wait" are two different things. But "wait" is also useful for much more than not bolting out the door. It is handy on the walks, whenever you have to pause for something, like picking up the poo, or getting a drink, so your dog doesn't just keep on going, dragging you with him on the leash. "Wait" tells him to just stand still a moment, not pulling at all. "Okay, let's go" tells him you're ready to take off again.

And I know it was on the other thread, but it's really the same topic... I send my dog out the door first, so I can close it behind us-- but I have to cue her, with "okay, let's go" and sometimes give her a little shove on the behind. Same with going in. When we come home, she moves over to the side while I open the door, and waits until I say, "okay, go in." Then, she is told again to "wait" patiently while I take off her leash and harness before going to her water dish. It's a very useful command, "wait" is!

Last edited by Mydogiscute; 10-22-2008 at 01:09 AM.
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #5 (permalink)
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Some says going the other direction when the dog starts pulling also helps...
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Old 10-22-2008   #6 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Mydogiscute View Post
And I know it was on the other thread, but it's really the same topic... I send my dog out the door first, so I can close it behind us-- but I have to cue her, with "okay, let's go" and sometimes give her a little shove on the behind. Same with going in. When we come home, she moves over to the side while I open the door, and waits until I say, "okay, go in." Then, she is told again to "wait" patiently while I take off her leash and harness before going to her water dish. It's a very useful command, "wait" is!
Thank you for your advice. I might try the treat thing. And I do use a harness over a neck restraint. I'm thinking about getting one of those leashes to attach to the harness that retract. I have found that he will walk a little slower and not pull so much when his leash is shorter and doesn't have so much length to it for him to go wild and pull.

Now as for your issue about letting your dog out of the door first....you believe that that is ok? Cause i'm still not sure what is right or wrong about that. People have said that I should go first because of safety. Because it lets the dog know who is boss. Because it could help with the pulling. But for heavens sake, i have no idea anymore!
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #7 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by CATorres View Post
Now as for your issue about letting your dog out of the door first....you believe that that is ok? Cause i'm still not sure what is right or wrong about that. People have said that I should go first because of safety. Because it lets the dog know who is boss. Because it could help with the pulling. But for heavens sake, i have no idea anymore!

I do it this way, because it works better for me, physically-- which essentially makes it safer. I've tried going out first, and it just feels more clumsy to me to do it that way. My dog understands who is boss, though-- that's why I have to give her a little nudge and tell her to go out. That's also why she waits for me to tell her to go in after I open the door.

Here's another "pack leader first" example: Everyone says the dog should never walk in front of you, but rather, beside or behind you. There are many times on our walks when we come to an area that is too narrow for us to walk side by side. To be honest, I prefer my dog to be in front so I can guide her more easily, and also so I can watch her behavior. For example, if I let her walk behind, she is likely to pick up something I didn't see, and eat it, without my knowledge! If she's in front, I can see if she's limping from a thorn in her paw. If I let her walk behind, I won't know she's picked up a scent or spotted a rabbit, and I will be injured when she gives chase. If she's in front, her body language will clue me in time to correct her. If she's in front, she will sense another person lurking around in the dark long before I do, and her body language will cause me to become more cautious as we approach the stanger. For me, it is simply safer to have my dog in front, where I can see her.

Basically, Cat, you have to do what feels right for YOU PERSONALLY, and what works for your personal and very individual circumstances. If it is easier for you to get out the door if your dog is in front, and if your dog understands you are the boss, then fine. Do it that way. If it works better for you to go out first, leading your dog, then great. Go out first, leading your dog.

When it comes down to the "brass tacks," all the advice the "expert trainers" and experienced dog owners have to offer is just that-- advice. Take it or leave it, or adapt it to your needs. There is no "one size fits all" way of dealing with pets or human children, either, for that matter! The only things that are universal are the needs for food, water, shelter, and discipline. But how much, and what kind, are up to each family/pack. I hope that helps. Whatever you decide to do, do it with confidence, and your dog will too!
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #8 (permalink)
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THANK YOU! I couldn't have a better reply!

You are right. I should do what I feel is the best for me. Also it does feel a little awkward having him wait behind while i walk through a door first and then have to tell him "lets go". I just want to get out the door!!!

So thank you once again.
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #9 (permalink)
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I agree. I don't think it is so much the fact that you let your dog go first as it is the fact that you LET (allow)(give permission) your dog to go first. That is not the same thing as if you get to the door and the dog barrels through knocking down any and all in his path.
 
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Old 10-22-2008   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by splinters View Post
That is not the same thing as if you get to the door and the dog barrels through knocking down any and all in his path.
LOL would be funny though if he did! A little thing like himself causing havoc.
 
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Old 10-23-2008   #11 (permalink)
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Currently taking my 5-month-old to classes, and we covered loose-leash walking a few weeks ago and have been reinforcing it.

What works best for me and my dog (and was suggested by the trainer) is to walk, and when the dog starts pulling, immediately go in the opposite direction and say, "okay, let's go!"
This way the dog does not get to go where it wants if it pulls.

At the same time, whenever the dog walks beside you with a loose leash, reward with a treat.

I also hold the treat at my side sometimes, where I want him to walk.

We've made a lot of progress. (:
 
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Old 10-23-2008   #12 (permalink)
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Does your dog watch the treat on your side instead of watching where he is going? Cause i have a feeling mine would...but i shall try that
 
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Old 10-23-2008   #13 (permalink)
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MIne would DEFINATELY watch the treat. LOL
 
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Old 10-23-2008   #14 (permalink)
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Cat, if you watch the top obedience dogs, they ALWAYS have their eyes glued on their handler. So yes, you want to have your dog looking at you, not everything else. At first he'll look at the treats, but as he learns, and you phase out the treats, he'll be watching you, waiting to take his direction from you.

Don't worry that he'll walk into things. He won't.

As far as the pulling goes, I know you have a Dachshund. Pulling is very bad for his back/neck. A harness will encourage him to pull, unless it's an anti-pulling harness. Have you considered trying a head halter, like the Gentle Leader or the Halti?
 
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Old 10-23-2008   #15 (permalink)
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So for starters....how do I train him to look into my eyes?

secondly...i didn't realize there were different types of harnesses. I think I just have a regular harness. He does pull. I'll have to look at the Gentle Leader or Halti. The first sounds promising.
 
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Old 10-26-2008   #16 (permalink)
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You really don't want him looking you in the eye if you're out walking on a leash. That kind of eye contact means neither one of you is watching where you're going, LOL.

What you do want is to have him watching you, not looking everywhere else but you. The simplest way to do that is to reward him every time he looks at you. When he looks away, give a gentle tug on the leash, just enough to get his attention and make him look back. Then tell him he's a good boy and give him a reward. As he becomes more consistent about watching you, phase out the rewards, and only praise him as you complete each exercise.

That's another thing you need to do to keep him on his toes. Break up your walks into "exercises". Heel, turn, stop, sit. Heel, reverse, stop, sit. Heel, speed up, slow down, stop, sit. As he learns more, add other tasks; sit and stay, down, stand and stay, etc. Praise after you complete each exercise. Keep him guessing what you're going to do next, and he's more likely to keep his focus on you.
 
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Old 10-27-2008   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by vetgroomer View Post
Cat, if you watch the top obedience dogs, they ALWAYS have their eyes glued on their handler. So yes, you want to have your dog looking at you, not everything else. At first he'll look at the treats, but as he learns, and you phase out the treats, he'll be watching you, waiting to take his direction from you.
Exactly.

As for training him to look you in the eye--this may not be good for walking, but it good for getting their attention.
In the obedience classes my dog and I attend, the trainer said to take a treat, and move it across his line of vision and then up next to your eyeball, while commanding "watch." Try to get him to keep his eyes fixed on you for a few seconds, then praise and reward with the treat. Eventually he will look you in the eye when you wave your hand in front of him.
 
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Old 10-27-2008   #18 (permalink)
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There's a big difference between loose leash walking (LLW) and heeling. LLW sounds more of what you want versus a refined heel. Heeling is an obedience behavior, and it's used for short term walking. You would not ask your dog to walk in heel for your daily walks, at least not over the entire walk. Maybe as you pass another dog, or need the dog to be in that position. Otherwise, a loose leash is all most dog owners want.

How to Keep a Dog from Pulling the Leash | Expert Village Videos

Now if you want to teach a formal heel, you need to teach the position of heel. Check out this young pup learning the foundation:
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Old 10-29-2008   #19 (permalink)
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I've heard the "turn the other way" advice many times, and it did work, although I looked like an idiot wandering around with my puppies in circles I bet the neighbors were all peeking out their windows wondering what was wrong with the poor dogs' owners.

And about the "I walk out first" idea, many say it's to establish dominance and maintain alpha position with the dog. It is a good idea when training is just beginning, but later on, I don't find that it matters. I've also heard about the "let your dog walk with or behind you". I've always found that to be extreme, because I'd rather see what my dog's doing, thanks! :mrgreen:
 
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Old 11-01-2008   #20 (permalink)
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It is all about the leash, and tension on the leash. When there is constant tension and pulling, it becomes very confusing for your dog. Teaching the dog to walk with slack in the leash, and teaching the dog to stand there next to your leg with slack in the leash is everything. As a matter of fact, when I first start training this, I never leave the same 4 foot by 4 foot area for about 2 or 3 days. Here are the clips in the online training area. You don't need to watch them all, just the first 4 or 5..

Training Your Dog To Heel
 
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