My newly adopted dog is pretty good on the leash. He doesn't pull much, and will walk at my side instead of ahead of me. He does want to pull when we pass other dogs or people however, or if he's very intent on smelling something. He's 75 pounds, so it can be very difficult to restrain him when he really does want to pull. I was thinking of getting a choke chain to make corrections - tugs at the leash aren't especially effective. I'm not very familiar with the different types of collars though. Any thoughts on chains/martingales/prong collars?

I was thinking, maybe you could get this one collar. It is like a normal collar, but it has like a noseband. The noseband gives more control.

If you can't finf that or it doesn't work, choke chains are fine also.

If you do not want to be too harsh on him, you can use a choke chain that has nylon throughout it.

Choke chains are good when fitted and used properly though. They are supossed to be the most effective anyways, also.

There is my suggestion for your collar problem. Hope you decide soon!

Any educated trainer (who learned how to train after 1975) will tell you to NOT use a choke chain. I do not know one trainer who uses or recommends them.

Your best option is called a Gentle Leader (the collar w/ noseband already mentioned). This is a SAFE way to address your dog's leash manners when used WITH a training program. Remember training tools (collars, gentle leaders, chains, leashes, etc.) are just that... Tools, and are to be used with a humane training program. I would recommend working with a trainer who can help you choose the right tool and get you started with a safe, humane training program.

[kodysdad]

Have you been to a basic obedience class with your dog? It's fun and it will help you to use any collar you choose correctly. The class I went to actually spent a good amount of time talking about collars.

Ive tried Gentle leader (nose) I have used Prong- i have used harnesses of all types. I only see proper results with a Prong- I am still working on the Gentle leader but I hate it- any product that put the link for the leash in the front of the product is just stupid- the dog is not walking right and the product goes to the side. The gentle leader says make the head as tight as possible (thats comfy--NOT) and the nose wont slide. Not happening. I have to get back with the trainer, cause when my dog sees a squirrel its all over and she is a loon. I need anti squirrel lessons. LOL and she is still after a week pawing to get the strap off her nose. This is a very smart dog too- she is awesome with everything but walking. Even though I hate the Prong she knows her limits even when seeing a squirrel she wants to go after but she doesnt. I just dont like the danger they can create on the neck

I had a 60lb pit bull at one time and Ive also had a lab/great Pyrenees mix who weighed about 110lbs maybe a little less/more.. anyways I used prong collars one both of those dogs and it worked really well, I only used it for a few months, then took it off, and they did fine. Another thing that you can try is getting a head collar, if you can control his head you can control the direction it goes. So when there is another dog, you can just turn the other direction, or just try and keep him near you, then once he calms down he can "meet" the other dog

I also tried the choke collars on both of the dogs I mentioned above, and that Did not work at all...
I had a trainer for our pit bull, for a little while and he was the one that told me to use the prong collar, he told me that if my dog didn't yelp when I snapped it, I wasn't doing it hard enough and it would never work. Which after a while, it was pretty true, at least with that dog...
With the lab mix he got it pretty quickly, w.out making him yelp.
Good Luck! Let us know how it goes! I would love to know what works best

Cinch collars (aka "choke chains") are only for use during training--if you need it. I use a leash similar to the one that Cesar uses except that it is thicker and not plastic. But, I only use it as a backup for dealing with Tanner's big problem: greeting dogs politely. I use a gentle leader as the main control device while we work on "walk nice". (Yes, when we are out he has two leashes on.) Our goal is to have appropriate control using a regular buckle collar which is required for CGC/TDI certifications. Tanner is a very bright dog who learns most things quickly. I just had to devise a system that gave me the ability to adequately address the issue of concern in a fashion that gets his attention.

I have also used (on a cattle dog) a prong collar. Despite what some people claim, prong collars are NOT cruel nor do they hurt. They apply consistant pressure around the neck when the dog pulls. I used the prong on the cattle dog so that my roommate (a 5foot nothing 100lb sick female) could take her for walks.

Harnesses will encourage pulling. Period.

The thing isn't so much what tools/devices you choose as being confident in your ability to use them correctly and know what your goal is. The ideal is to be able to handle the dog with a buckle collar. Until then, we do what is best for our situation. Bottom line is we as responsible dog owners must be in control of our dog(s) at all times.

Originally Posted by Frecs

Cinch collars (aka "choke chains") are only for use during training--if you need it. I use a leash similar to the one that Cesar uses except that it is thicker and not plastic. But, I only use it as a backup for dealing with Tanner's big problem: greeting dogs politely. I use a gentle leader as the main control device while we work on "walk nice". (Yes, when we are out he has two leashes on.) Our goal is to have appropriate control using a regular buckle collar which is required for CGC/TDI certifications. Tanner is a very bright dog who learns most things quickly. I just had to devise a system that gave me the ability to adequately address the issue of concern in a fashion that gets his attention.

I have also used (on a cattle dog) a prong collar. Despite what some people claim, prong collars are NOT cruel nor do they hurt. They apply consistant pressure around the neck when the dog pulls. I used the prong on the cattle dog so that my roommate (a 5foot nothing 100lb sick female) could take her for walks.

Harnesses will encourage pulling. Period.

The thing isn't so much what tools/devices you choose as being confident in your ability to use them correctly and know what your goal is. The ideal is to be able to handle the dog with a buckle collar. Until then, we do what is best for our situation. Bottom line is we as responsible dog owners must be in control of our dog(s) at all times.

I kind of like that idea of using 2 collars. The buckle collar is enough when we are just walking alone or jogging. When he passes other dogs or people though it's just not enough to hold him back. I just don't want to be pinching him the whole time we're jogging. I've never used a prong collar before - do you have any suggestions on how to fit it? How are you working with Tanner to greet dogs politely?

As with any training they should ONLY be used under the guidance and supervision of an experienced trainer. Using any training tool (choke chain, pinch collar, gentle leader, halti, harness etc.) incorrectly can really harm your dog. My suggestion if to get in touch with a local trainer and seek out his/her help with you dog.

I use prongs on my boxers and they are great. But like others said, they only need to be used during walks or training. They look pretty scary but they are actually a lot safer then choke chains.

But MAKE SURE that you get it fitted by a trainer and have them show you how to use it. They are a great tool but if used incorrectly they can do damage. Also, do not let the dog continue to pull on it. You give a quick pop and release and then let the slack back in.

Also, do not use it with a flexi line. You will not have any control. A 6 foot leash (preferably leather) is best. I choose leather because if the dog pulls, it wont give you rub burns on your hands. A nylon leash REALLY hurts when you have a 50 pound pure muscle boxer on the other end!

Originally Posted by BigBlackDogGal

I kind of like that idea of using 2 collars. The buckle collar is enough when we are just walking alone or jogging. When he passes other dogs or people though it's just not enough to hold him back. I just don't want to be pinching him the whole time we're jogging. I've never used a prong collar before - do you have any suggestions on how to fit it? How are you working with Tanner to greet dogs politely?

If the prong is sized correctly, it will not pinch when he is walking without pulling. If it is pinching consistantly, then the collar is too small. You can purchase extra links to add to the chain.

With Tanner, if I see him staring at a dog, I break his stare (step in front of him or turn around so his back is to the dog. If he barks or lunges, I give a sharp verbal correction with a strong leash correction. It looks/sounds worse than it is--it's what is necessary to let him know that I strongly disapprove of his action. We found that anything less and he ignores the correction. In addition, I seek out places where there are people with their dogs on leash (a local park, the neighborhood). I stop a distance from them and as long as Tanner behaves nicely, he gets praised. I'll do some repetitions of "watch me" as well. If all is going well, we move a bit closer. I'll try to get close enough for Sabastian to "greet nicely" since he doesn't have problems with that concept. Again, if Tanner does well, I praise him. If all seems to be going well, I will give him the command "greet nicely" and give him some leash. If he starts any inappropriate behavior, he gets a correction and the visit ends. He really wants to play so he is learning what behaviors will allow him to spend time with other dogs and what behaviors end the fun.

To manage all the leashes, I loop Sabastian's leash through one side of the fannypak so he is completely "hands free". I loop the "correction" leash of Tanner's through the other side of the fannypak. Thus, I mostly only have to hold one leash but can quickly access the others for control.

[mrandrei]

I only use a very basic heavy duty nylon collars on my dog. I've also tried using a rolled leather collar before, it works great.

I liked Frec's suggestion of going where there are lots of people and dogs. I also think it's right that it's not so much what collar you use, but how you train. I've used all the training tricks, but I think I need to immerse my high-strung Labradoodle into a sea of people, animals, and distractions to desensitize her; the most popular park, a bustling downtown pedestrian street, the busiest tourist areas,, etc.

Also I need to make sure that I exercise my dog every day.

Any other suggestions for my high-energy, excitable, easily distracted 11-month-old labradoodle who misbehaves and pulls on leash?